Skoki Lodge

Elevation: 2164 m (Lodge), 2485 m (Deception Pass)
Elevation Gain: 470 m
First opened in 1931, the Skoki Lodge is a rustic log building, located on the bank of the Pipestone River, to the north of Lake Louise, in Banff National Park. The Lodge was one of the earliest North American backcountry facilities built to cater to ski tourism, during a time when skiing was emerging as a major form of winter recreation in Canada. Built by the Ski Club of the Canadian Rockies, the lodge was originally a 25 x 16-foot single-story cabin, made with timber cut nearby. By 1936, a second story and several nearby cabins were also constructed. The Lodge was designated a National Historic Site in 1992 as a result of its remote location and its rustic log building tradition. In the nearly 100 years that the Lodge has operated, it has hosted countless guests, including (most famously) the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge in 2011. The name “Skoki” was first applied to the area in 1911 by James F. Porter. "Skoki" is believed to be the Stoney Nakoda word for "swamp" (of which there are several in the area). The name is also shared by an Illinois suburb north of Chicago (Skokie); however, it is not known if it migrated from east to west or from west to east.
My Ascents:
July 13 2023
Trailhead: Fish Creek (Skoki Lodge) Trailhead
GPS Track: Skoki Lodge (via Deception Pass)

Mothers are an inspiration. When I reflect on the women in my life who are mothers, my friends, my wife, and my own mom, I am awed by them and the magnitude of what that they take on. When I think specifically of my mother Pat Hobbs (also known as “Grandma” these days), I think of care and nurture; I think about someone who was invested in the things that I was passionate about (no matter how asinine they were); I think of “twirlies,” and her time spent listening to the details of my day; I think of a fierce defender; I think about dinners that were “hits” and dinners that were “misses,” but remember that there was always dinner on the table; I think about how much work she took on, that I was blissfully or willfully ignorant of; I think of someone who does crafts with my daughters, because I am always too tired or busy to; I think of unconditional love ❤️; Mostly, I think of someone who spent the better part of her life putting her own needs after those of others.

Growing up, my Mom and Dad granted me the privilege of frequent trips to the Canadian Rockies. Those weekends, spent hiking, camping, and cross-country skiing molded me into the man that I’ve become (for better or worse). I always admired the way that my Dad charged up whatever trail we were on; How he led us into adventure. What I only become aware of recently, was how much work my Mom did 🤯 to support those formative family forays into the wild. Dad might have been at the front of our little pack, but Mom was usually with me, holding my hand, or explaining plate tectonics/mountain formation to keep me entertained. If we had backpacks on, she packed them. If we ate lunch, she made it. If we camped, she’d gotten everything ready. Our adventures and misadventures always ended well because she’d done the hard work behind the scenes. So, for her 70th birthday 🎂, I decided that it was long past time to treat my Mom (AKA “Grandma”) to a grand, but luxurious, adventure; To take her somewhere spectacular, where she could focus solely on enjoying the mountains, while someone else took care of the details; To thank her for all that she’s done, and continues to do for our family, by simply spending a few days together in the beautiful backcountry.

Aware that “Grandma” always wanted to visit the Skoki Lodge (but never had the chance), I therefore arranged a 4-day trip for us. Over the course of many previous visits to the area (but not the Lodge), Skoki had also become very special to me. While I love its alpine meadows, abundant lakes, and majestic mountains, Skoki was, most importantly, the place where my own family began (the day my wife-to-be said “yes” atop Fossil Mountain). Eager to share this uncrowded gem with my Mom, I presented her with a card outlining our July 2023 Skoki itinerary on her 70th birthday in February. I think it was a good gift because she was briefly speechless and then wept. 🥹😭 That made me cry too. 🥰 Happy birthday “Grandma!” 🎉🎈

After a nearly 5-month wait, Grandma finally got her promised present as the Skoki Lodge shuttle dropped us (and a host of other guests) off at the end of the Temple fire road. There are many benefits to staying at the Lodge but the single-greatest one might be the ride up the dull-as-a-dishwasher 4-km fire road, which cut the hike into Skoki down to a manageable 11-km.

LEFT: Looks like the birthday girl must have failed to put out some (or all) of those 70 candles on her birthday cake… 🕯️ As the trip neared, Grandma had been worried about rain, but it turns out that she should have been worried about wildfire smoke as a noxious blanket of it settled over the Canadian Rockies the day before our long-planned trip. 😔
RIGHT: Excited and eager, Grandma made quick work of the trail’s first couple of kilometers (which are forested and dull enough to make this little bridge a veritable highlight).

Fortunately, the scenery improved dramatically beyond these initial kilometers as the trail meandered into more alpine surroundings! Even on this apocalyptically smoky day, the first views towards Mount Richardson, Pika Peak and Ptarmigan Peak were enough to take our breath away (if the poor air quality hadn’t done so already).

LEFT: Hidden Creek cascades down from its namesake Lake (unseen, as you’d expect) at the verdant foot of Mount Richardson.
RIGHT: This new, colorful sign touting the benefits of biodiversity seemed completely out of place, as it represented the only “significant” investment that Parks Canada appears to have made in the Skoki region for decades. 🤦 Maybe they’ll consider signing some of the area’s trails too so that people can enjoy Skoki’s biodiversity without getting lost? 🙄

LEFT: An out-of-place block foreshadowed the landscape ahead as we neared Boulder Pass.
RIGHT: Grandma stops to enjoy the views (and catch her breath) amidst the rubble ruins that lay below Redoubt Mountain’s rocky ramparts.

Grandma grinds her way up towards aptly named Boulder Pass. This was the first of two significant uphill efforts required to get to the Lodge, and it ended up kicking my poor mom’s butt a bit. Even though she saw some stars, 😵 there was no “quit” in Grandma, and she made it up the pass a lot faster than most other septuagenarians would!

A smoky Skoki panorama from atop the biggest boulder in Boulder Pass. Normally, this pass offers spectacular views back towards Lake Louise and Moraine Lake’s more crowded peaks but, sadly, the smoke robbed us of these on this day. Click to see larger (and try to spot a napping Grandma 😴 as she re-collects her strength).

LEFT: The view from the top of a big boulder. While Grandma enjoyed a catnap, I amused myself by scrambling up large hunks of rock. Everyone needs a hobby, right? 🤷
RIGHT: You can’t keep a good Grandma down! After a 15-minute recharge and a snack, she was up and “rearing to go” once more! 😁

Shortly after cresting Boulder Pass, we were greeted by the first of the area’s many lovely lakes: Ptarmigan Lake. Again, smoke robbed this panorama of a great deal of its impact, as there are normally massive, glacier-carved peaks in the background. Click to see larger.

Grandma begins the scenic hike along Ptarmigan Lake’s north shore towards the day’s next obstacle: Deception Pass. This pass separates tiny Packer’s Pass Peak on the center left from larger Fossil Mountain on the center right and is the high point (2485 m) of the hike into the Skoki Lodge.

Proliferations of paintbrushes and pasqueflowers provided a welcome “pop” of color amidst the surrounding smokescape.

LEFT: Trickles and meadows at the base of Ptarmigan Peak’s Himalayan-esque summit.
RIGHT: As the trail left the lakeshore and began to gain elevation, the views back towards Redoubt Mountain got better and better (despite the smoke). Grandma definitely enjoyed the views but she looks a little less keen about the elevation gain in this photo! 😂

LEFT: The trail grade steepens as we approach Deception Pass.
RIGHT: Grandma in the midst of the day’s second major height gain. Having watched her suffer somewhat on the way up Boulder Pass, I volunteered to take her pack up Deception Pass. It was then that I learned why she suffered so earlier; Her pack weighed approximately ONE MILLION POUNDS!!! 🤯 This trip was one where she wasn’t supposed to worry about the details, so I guess I should have helped her to determine what was essential when she was packing (but I didn’t). As penance for this, that MILLION POUND pack would be mine to carry up steep sections going forward… 😱

Feeling light as a feather, Grandma cruised up the final steep scree towards Deception Pass (while yours truly portered and earned an extra helping of delicious Skoki Lodge food).

Upon cresting the pass, the Wall of Jericho dramatically emerged from the haze on the other side.

She made it! 🥳 From Deception Pass, there was still about 3.5-km to the Lodge but it would all be downhill from here!

Grandma takes in the alpine vistas as she readies herself for the hike down to the Lodge, which sits unseen at the base of Skoki Mountain (center right).

Ptarmigan Peak (left) and the Wall of Jericho (right) rose dramatically above the surrounding alpine meadows and streams as we started down from Deception Pass.

The work of nearly-gone glaciers was on full display in the form of Ptarmigan Peak and the Wall of Jericho’s sheer faces. Below them, pools of glacial water (the Skoki Lakes) were faintly visible through the haze, while more proximate paintbrushes provided an exclamation mark ❗ for the scene.

LEFT: With no uphills left, we were able to enjoy a chill pace down the backside of Deception Pass.
RIGHT: A butterfly flutters by one of the alpine meadow’s many wildflowers.

LEFT and RIGHT: As we continued to descend, streams picked up steam below Fossil Mountain’s impressive west face.

10-km down, 1-km to go! Grandma’s excitement at the prospect of getting out of her hiking boots was palpable once she noticed this sign. 😂

Near the Lodge, a local wondered who would carry such a large pack for a backcountry Lodge stay where food is provided! 🤔🙃

The realization of a long-time dream 🥰: Grandma finally makes it the Skoki Lodge (which, according to this plaque, is just as historic as she is)!

LEFT and RIGHT: The point of this trip was to treat my Mom for her 70th birthday. I’m not sure that she felt “treated” while slogging up Boulder Pass and, then, Deception Pass, but that all turned around fast when we checked in and the Lodge team provided us with a couple of cold beers 🍻 and an exquisite charcuterie board!

A Smoky Skoki Lodge panorama, with hazy views towards the Wall of Jericho (left) and Silvertip Mountain (right). Click to see larger.

After a hearty repast of cheese, crackers and beer, we explored the historic Lodge’s scenic surroundings.

LEFT: The Lodge’s resident marmot guards its “facilities.”
RIGHT: A restroom with a view (if you can make it past the guard marmot)! While the Lodge flew in a flush toilet for the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, they (apparently) didn’t feel that Grandma was above using their more conventional “long drop.” 🚽

Exploring inside: the Lodge’s cozy common room.

A great place to while away an afternoon with a book if you’re not hiking (but who were we kidding… We were going to be hiking the whole time 😁)!

Some of the photos mounted on the log walls were historically interesting, while others (like this one) simply gave me a chuckle. Fortunately, for us the Lodge’s chef had more to work with than porcupine during our stay!

Upstairs, we found a “comically creaky” floor (as another Lodge guest, Eric, put it) and our cozy Skoki Room.

You know you’re in my kind of Lodge when there are fossils on the windowsill!

Grandma checks out one of our, surprisingly warm and comfortable, beds. Although, they looked a tad small, they proved perfect and allowed us to get all the rest that we’d need to hike, hike, hike over the course of the following 3 days.

LEFT: As the sun set on Day 1 of our Skoki adventure, a tired Grandma called it a night, 🥱 while I maximized the remaining daylight to explore our surroundings a bit more.
RIGHT: After crossing the fledgling Pipestone River on a good log bridge (left), I discovered a clear, calm pool that even featured a cutthroat trout or two. Careful: apparently, they nibble!

The precocious Pipestone River cascades into the clear, waist-deep pool.

Pool selfie! I didn’t know it at the time, but this pool is actually the Lodge pool (talk about 5-star accommodation)! A short time after this photo was taken, the Valley was filled with the shrieks of the Lodge team and a few guests taking their nightly bath. 🛀

LEFT and RIGHT: Before the bathing began, I wandered 10 – 15 minutes up a spur trail behind the Lodge and discovered the perfect place for a nightcap. I’d later learn that the Lodge Team refers to this as “the Party Bench.”

From “the Party Bench,” smoky sunset views of Mount Richardson (left) and Merlin Ridge (center right) provided an appropriate conclusion to Day 1 of Grandma and I’s 70th birthday adventure. With daylight fading, I finished my ale and made haste back down the spur trail towards the, now silent, Lodge below.

Lights-out at the Skoki Lodge. 😴 Having already added to my tally of “special Skoki memories,” I laid my head to sleep, tried to ignore the unbelievably squeaky floor, and my snoring roommate, 🙃 and dreamed of the shared mountain adventures and memories that tomorrow would bring…