Upper Rowe Lakes

Elevation: 2181 m
Elevation Gain: 660 m
The Rowe Lakes are located in subalpine cirques on the north side of Mount Rowe (which straddles the Continental Divide immediately north of Akamina Pass). The peak, lakes and creek which drain to the Alberta side of the Divide take their name from Lieutenant Frederick Valentine Rowe. Rowe was the International Boundary Commission’s surveying officer. This Commission was responsible for delineating the Canada-US border from Lake of the Woods to the Continental Divide. As the Commission’s task neared completion, its members named a number of geographic features for themselves and their colleagues. Interestingly, Lieutenant Rowe was so-honored despite the fact that he never saw the Rocky Mountains (having been thrown violently from his horse well to the east in Manitoba).
My Ascents:
September 25 2021
Trailhead: Rowe/Tamarack Trailhead
GPS Track: Upper Rowe Lakes

With wonderful weather forecast for the year’s first fall weekend, the Hobbs clan decided to escape for one final family camping/hiking trip before winter’s imminent arrival. Autumn can be downright magical in the Rockies but you may miss it if you blink. For a brief time, fall colors pop (particularly in the subalpine where larch trees transform from everyday evergreen to golden glowsticks); Autumn air invigorates; The sun’s rays still bear summer’s warmth. Then, it snows and hikers are left with 8 months of winter to ponder next year’s adventures.

In recent years, the compulsion to take advantage of this brief, magical hiking window has led to a pandemic. No, not that one. I’m speaking of “larch madness.” Some, like me, have long been afflicted but a decade ago it seemed rare and its R-value was negligible. The problem probably started with a September selfie in Larch Valley. Soon the masses descended upon that forest and avid hikers were left to wax nostalgic about weekend parking at Moraine Lake. Sadly, Banff National Park’s towering peaks weren’t barrier enough to prevent the madness’ spread. Kananaskis quickly succumbed and hordes arrived with noses glued to the “tracks” on their phones. Everyone has a right to enjoy the outdoors but horrific congestion like this has no place in the Rockies. The sensitive alpine simply can’t withstand it. Larix lyallii is distributed above 1500 m elevation throughout the southern Canadian Rockies. If you want to see golden larch trees, consider alternatives to already overrun areas – there are many and finding them isn’t rocket science. Generally, it consists of the following: go up!

Meanwhile, as it relates to this particular adventure, we hoped to avoid the “larch madness” crowds (in the midst of an actual pandemic) and, therefore, set our sights south towards Waterton Lakes National Park. Waterton too is busier than it once was but the 3-hour drive from Calgary still serves as a blessed deterrent to the casual “Alltrails” subscriber. Arriving at the Rowe/Tamarack trailhead at 11:30 am (😴 LOL 😂), we found parking at the small lot’s edge and started our trek towards the lovely Larix lyallii in the alpine above.

Within moments of leaving the trailhead, it became apparent that spectacular fall colors can exist at lower elevations in absentia of Larix lyallii ! Hiking up the somewhat busy trail, we marvelled at the summer’s scenic finale.

LEFT: 4-year-old Penny and 5-year-old Mera wander up the well-kept trail, surrounded by the ghosts of 2017’s Kenow wildfire.
RIGHT: Like the mythological Phoenix, the forest alongside Rowe Creek has, literally, started to rise from the ashes. The resulting host of “baby trees” fascinated our inquisitive little hikers who stopped (frequently 🙄) to marvel at them.

LEFT: Fall colors and Waterton’s abundant argillite are a wonderful compliment to one another!
RIGHT: My girls pause for a photo before the valley narrows. Above, at center left, our destination larch forest can be seen just below the ridge that divides Alberta from BC.

LEFT: Mercifully, the Kenow fire failed to raze this part of the valley. The result is a varied approach that showcases recent burn and old growth forest alike.
RIGHT: Fall foliage on the forest floor and a spattering of golden larches, still high above.

About 2 km from the trailhead, the surviving forest gave way to a massive slide path on Mount Lineham’s south slopes. Here, the fall colors proved so explosive that Mera’s nose literally started to bleed! 🤯

Looking back down the vibrant valley towards Buchanan Peak (while pinching a Kleenex around our poor little girl’s nose!).

LEFT: Since we’d stopped already, the slide path provided an opportune place to enjoy first-lunch. As you can see, Crux was eager to share sandwiches.
RIGHT: With the bleeding stopped and tummies full, we started back up-valley crossing moss-lined Rowe Creek a few times.

All of our children enjoyed the various creek crossings but none moreso than our eldest: Crux.

Continuing upstream, we passed a number of other groups including prolific Rockies explorer Vern Dewit and his wife Hanneke. After a lifetime of “explor8ion” in the same Rockies, it was great to finally meet Vern (although I regret feeling a little rushed as we spoke). After exchanging pleasantries, the Dewits continued down and the Hobbs’ continued up. “Celebrity” sightings aside, we ran into all sorts of other friendly hikers. The trail was busy to be sure but far from overrun. It’s nice to see likeminded people enjoying the outdoors in reasonable numbers!

About 5 km from the trailhead, the forest gave way to a subalpine meadow (a not-so-great place to hide from fierce thunderstorms) and our destination larch forest finally came into view.

LEFT: Penny enjoys one last creek-crossing at the meadow’s edge before starting the steeper ascent to the Upper Rowe Lakes.
RIGHT: Our curious 4-year-old acquaints herself with the trail’s first larch tree and its soft deciduous needles.

The sign points the way up the hike’s final switch-backing slopes.

The hike’s penultimate kilometer proved steeper than those that preceded it and quickly vaulted us above the meadow below. As we climbed, other small larch forests came into view on Mount Lineham’s colorful south slopes. Click to see larger.

The popular Tamarack trail winds its way up Lineham Ridge’s ruby-red slopes to the north.

A hint of “magic” in the air above… The hike’s final north-facing slopes were shaded, however, the golden tree tops above were just high enough to escape the shadows. As their dainty limbs swayed in the Waterton wind, they soaked up the late afternoon sun and seemed to luminesce.

Someone else feels the autumn magic as well… 🥰

LEFT: Red mountain views through golden windows in the forest.
RIGHT: Looks like someone inherited her Dad’s love ❤️ of larches! 🤣

LEFT and RIGHT: Following the final, steep kilometer, Upper Rowe Lake appeared suddenly amidst the larch forest; a shimmering mirage in a sea of gold! 🤩

Upper Rowe Lake and its surrounding larches glow below Mount Rowe on a magical autumn afternoon. Mercifully, the hordes of larch-seekers stayed well to the north in Kananaskis and Banff. Here, the lakeshore was only sparsely populated with hikers who, like us, came to get away from all that. There were no Bluetooth speakers. There were no line-ups. There was only this. Click to see larger.

LEFT and RIGHT: Mera and Penny wet their weary feet in Rowe’s icy waters. 6.5 km and 660 vertical meters is a decent day when you’re only 4 or 5-years-old!

As we explored the nearby lakeshore, we found the primary colors 🔴🔵🟡 well-represented! Indeed, Mount Rowe’s red slopes contrasted dramatically with the lake’s blue waters which were ringed by autumn ambers.

LEFT: Crisp, clear blue skies above and luminescent lakeshore larches aflame below. Simply put: a perfect fall day in the Canadian Rockies!
RIGHT: Okay, the hordes of larch-seeking “Alltrails” followers aren’t the only ones who enjoy a “selfie” (now and then) 🙃!

Mounts Lineham (left) and Rowe (right) fill the sun-splashed Upper Rowe Lake panorama. Click to see larger.

Altocumulus clouds form above as Waterton winds buffet nearby Mount Lineham, promoting atmospheric instability above.

Thanks to abundant argillite, Upper Rowe Lake appeared to be red, violet or blue depending on the depth of its waters. On its own, this would be pretty enough but the whole ensemble was really set-off by the bright Larix lyallii that ran rampant in this cirque. Click to see larger.

LEFT and RIGHT: A magical autumn afternoon for my girls and I (and yes, another “selfie” – maybe I should bring a “selfie-stick next time 🙃?).

LEFT: Another set of weary hiking paws cooling off in the lake.
RIGHT: Enjoying a moment with my girls.

After an enjoyable lakeshore stay, we troubled a friendly passer-by for a quick family photo before packing up and leaving the lovely larches behind for another year.

LEFT: On Descent, we followed the lakeshore (instead of the main trail) for a bit and found an amber alpine meadow to explore.
RIGHT: Following a dry, red-rock creek below Upper Rowe Lake.

LEFT: As we wandered in larch-lined meadows and creek beds below the Upper Lake, Penny and Mera showed off their “mountain-explorer” abilities and did their Dad proud. 😁
RIGHT: At the end of the dry creek bed, we discovered a much smaller (but equally colorful) lake! I guess that’s why the hike is called “Upper Rowe LakeS”…

The lower of the Upper Rowe Lakes (not to be confused with the Lower Rowe Lakes) is seasonal and was, by this time, more of a puddle (but a pretty one, nevertheless). Click to see larger.

Golden larches frame the Lake’s puddle’s pretty waters.

LEFT: After our little “mountain explorers” successfully found their way back to the main trail, we began our descent back into the shade of the north-facing forest, bidding adieu to the final sun-kissed larch trees as we did.
RIGHT: Penny and her Mom hike down as the sun sets behind the Continental Divide.

LEFT and RIGHT: Our little “Penny Bear” does her best to keep up with her Big Sister on the trail’s many bridges.

Occasional views of the sun-splashed larches above from the shade of the forested valley below.

Brianne makes her way back across the colorful slide path. Fortunately, the chromatic onslaught didn’t result in any nosebleeds this time!

A vibrant (but incredibly backlit) panorama from the slide path. Click to see larger and feel free to message me with any Lightroom-related tips – this multiple exposure stitched image was a nightmare to process!

Buchanan Peak keeps watch above as Mom and Penny return to the scene of the burn below. Under fading sunlight, we retraced our steps through the Kenow fire’s aftermath and soon reached our vehicle at the, now, nearly empty trailhead.

LEFT: Thanks to our 11:30 am start 😴🤣 and the speed at which little legs move, we got back to our campsite later than we’d hoped. Nevertheless, a candle-lit dinner under the stars wasn’t a bad way to end the day!
RIGHT: It may have been late but there’s ALWAYS time for post-hike smores around the campfire! 🔥

Our little camping trailer glows in the firelight while an amazing starry night unfolds above. 🤩

Cuddled up around the campfire with my amazing little hikers, we stared up in wonder at the Milky Way and, for a brief instant, time stopped. I wish I could bottle that moment. To have it for all time. My little girls and I under the stars. But, like the golden larch needles that we all go mad for, it was fleeting. As I write, that moment has passed and, while it might have been ephemeral, it was a perfect conclusion to a memorable camping/hiking season. Some people hike for selfies; for checklists; for others to see. I don’t know if I realized it until now but MOMENTS are why I hike; why I camp. Luckily, said moments can happen year-round (even after the first snowfall has dispatched with all of the lovely larch needles).