Purple Mound via Lipalian Mountain

Elevation: Purple Mound - 2675 m, Lipalian Mountain - 2710 m
Elevation Gain: 1130 m (cummulative)
Purple Mound is the unofficial (but apt) name for the high point midway along the connecting ridge between Lipalian Mountain and Unity Peak in Banff National Park. Lipalian is a geological term which refers to the unconformity between Precambrian and Cambrian rock formations. During an 1884 ascent of Lipalian, Arthur Coleman referred to the peak as a “common place mountain” that provided a scenic “introduction to its more stately neighbors.” Early ascents of these peaks required travel through much brush, however, this bushy approach has now been eliminated thanks to the “Larch” area of the Lake Louise ski resort. As part of a classic backcountry ski (the “Pumpkin Traverse”), Purple Mound is probably summited more often during winter than it is during summer.
My Ascents:
September 13 2019, June 20 2014 (Lipalian Mountain Only)
Trailhead: Fish Creek (Skoki Lodge) Trailhead
GPS Track: Purple Mound via Lipalian Mountain

Crisp morning air. Colorful amber leaves falling gently to the ground. Pumpkin spice everywhere. The Stampeders sweeping their northern rivals in the Labor Day series. These much-anticipated annual events herald the arrival of autumn in Alberta. As much as I look forward to all of the above, the annual September event that I look forward to most is Brianne and I’s anniversary scramble (although Brianne occasionally wonders how suffering up a peak became our de facto anniversary tradition). This year, even more than others, I was looking forward to our annual outing. For not only was our 6th wedding anniversary upon us; a successful ascent of a new peak would also mark another personal milestone: my 250th different summit!

These coinciding milestones were no accident. As the summer passed, I had been keeping a close eye on my summit tally and working diligently towards putting myself in position to climb my 250th peak on our anniversary. Indeed, I can’t recall any other summer where I tackled as many multi-peak days as I did this year! Normally, I don’t really care about summit numbers but 250 struck me as being special and I decided that it would be particularly special to share that accomplishment with my favorite climbing partner: my beautiful Breezy Goat; my wonderful wife; Brianne.

With a grand plan befitting these occasions in place, things, of course, began to go sideways. As our anniversary approached, Brianne spiked a fever 2 nights before we were due to leave and a pounding sinus headache continued to haunt her as our anniversary neared. At the same time, an initially promising weather forecast shifted from clear and sunny to wet and extremely cloudy. The night before we were due to leave, we called Grandma (who was generously babysitting for us) and pushed back our departure time from 5:30 am to 7:30 am and, then again, to 8:30 am. With Brianne sick and gloomy weather forecast, an alpine start no longer seemed necessary.

After packing our bags and kissing our girls goodbye, we started our drive west towards Lake Louise. 6 years earlier, we’d been married there on a perfect, hot, sunny September afternoon. This day would not be a repeat of those conditions! Setting out, we had no idea what (if anything) we would hike or scramble up. Our initial plan was out of the question. With Brianne feeling ill, it was simply too big and committing. As we drove through Banff, the mountains disappeared among swirling clouds and rain poured down in silvery sheets. We crawled along the highway at less than 80 km/h. I was in no hurry to get anywhere in these conditions (and we still didn’t even know where we were going).

Rounding Castle Junction, however, a funny thing happened. A prominent patch of blue sky opened up over Lake Louise and the rain ceased its relentless pounding! Unfortunately, Brianne’s sinus headache did not, similarly, abate. I let her know that we didn’t have to climb anything. I even suggested the Lake Louise gondola as a way of salvaging a mountain day without her having to exert herself (unthinkable, I know!). While I desperately wanted to see an anniversary ascent through, I had no desire whatsoever to watch my wife suffer unduly.

But my wife is one tough goat (that must be why I asked her to spend our lives together!). She dismissed the gondola and told me that she’d be willing to give Purple Mound (one of the many Plan B objectives we’d discussed) a go. As you might deduce from its name, Purple Mound is not the most impressive peak to label as your 250th. In fact, it’s not even an “official” mountain. Fortunately, I didn’t give a damn about that! I was just thrilled that Brianne and I would actually be able to scramble up something to mark both of the day’s momentous occasions together!

Parking at the Fish Creek (Skoki) trailhead across the Bow Valley from Lake Louise, we started up the, all-too-familiar, Temple fire road. Brianne and I have both been up this road many times before. In fact, we had hiked it exactly one year earlier while approaching our last anniversary objective (Wolverine Ridge) on an even colder, cloudier day! This road doesn’t offer much in the way of exciting hiking but it does (eventually) lead to some spectacular scenery (if the clouds lift enough for you to see it). For my part, I was just happy to be out. Even on an uninspiring fire road, the crisp mountain air filled my lungs and invigorated me. Brianne, unfortunately, did not seem similarly enthusiastic. In fact, she was hiking along very, very quietly while she continued to push through a pounding headache. I, again, reminded her that quitting was very much an option but she continued ever upwards.

After hiking for 3 – 4 km, we neared the “Larch” area of the Lake Louise ski resort and Redoubt Mountain made a cameo appearance amidst the clouds. I asked Brianne to pose here because I’d taken a similar photo last year when Redoubt emerged from a similar "suckerhole." Miraculously, Brianne managed a smile! In fact, as we continued plodding up the dull road, her headache started to fade and her spirits concomitantly improved! Improbable as it had seemed hours earlier, it was starting to look like we might actually enjoy our 2019 anniversary outing!

After passing under the (lower-than-usual) Larch chairlift, we turned right (southeast) and started up a wide ski run. Purple Mound can either be ascended via a traverse from Lipalian Mountain or via the Wolverine Valley a little further to the north. On this day, we opted to go up (and over) Lipalian since this would keep us on open ski runs until we reached tree line. After a heavy rainfall earlier in the morning, we weren’t especially keen on soaking ourselves by bushwhacking up the Wolverine Valley (pretty though it is)!

Fall colors highlighted the still-moody view towards Richardson Ridge as we continued up the Larch ski run.

After cresting the steepest part of the ski run, we actually felt the sun’s warm embrace! Surrounded by enchanting larch trees, we opted to break for lunch here, enjoying views back towards the peak on which we were married 6 years earlier!

Across the valley, Lake Louise appeared suddenly like an oasis in a desert of clouds.

After lunch, we continued up the ski hill. As the ascent angle eased and colorful larches proliferated, Lipalian Mountain finally appeared ahead of us. Turning towards me, Brianne asked if Lipalian and Purple Mound would count as a two’fer for her. Obviously, someone was feeling better!

Above the “Larch” chairlift, we continued up, up, up. Behind us, Redoubt Mountain rose impressively beyond a host of golden larch trees.

This is what anniversaries are all about! 😂

As we ascended, we were treated to an impressive show across the valley. Pausing for a break, we watched as clouds swirled around the mighty peaks of the Lake Louise group beyond a sea of amber larches.

Massive Mount Temple cloaked in cloud.

Brianne tackles a brief but steep section of surprisingly slippery boulders. After the morning’s rain we weren’t likin’ the lichen!

While the boulders did present a slipping hazard, they also provided some nice opportunities for this photographer to frame nearby Redoubt Mountain.

Brianne soldiers on as Lipalian’s final scree slope rears steeply skyward. Dismayed by this intimidating wall of treadmill scree, Brianne didn’t believe me when I told her that we’d be up it in 10 minutes (she even started the stopwatch on her phone to prove me wrong)! While my initial estimate was off by a bit, neither of us complained much when we crested Lipalian’s final defenses 12.5 minutes later.

As we groveled up the final scree slope, I found myself oddly enchanted by the needlelike scree. In fact, I recalled feeling the same way 5 years earlier when I first ascended Lipalian Mountain with my other favorite climbing partner (Crux!). As she took 1 step forward only to slide 2 steps back, I don’t think that Brianne found the scree nearly as enchanting, however!

Only moments from Lipalian’s summit, the weather, of course, took a significant turn for the worse. As the wind picked up, all but our immediate surroundings disappeared.

Another beautiful day in the Canadian Rockies atop Lipalian Mountain! The summit cairn was, pretty much, the extent of the summit view! 🤦‍♂️

Another anniversary; another wintry whiteout on top with my Love! While it was good to summit something on our anniversary, I’d previously scrambled Lipalian in 2014 so this didn’t get me any closer to my coveted 250th. At least Brianne got to add another peak to her hiking CV though!

Brianne (literally) tags Lipalian's summit and leaves to head for nearby Purple Mound! Without a damned thing to see, there really was no purpose dawdling on Lipalian’s frigid high point.

An anniversary miracle! After leaving Lipalian’s socked-in summit, Purple Mound improbably manifested in front of us as the clouds lifted and began to clear.

While we hiked along the connecting ridge to Purple Mound, we enjoyed northward views towards diminutive Wolverine Ridge (site of last year’s anniversary celebration/sufferfest).

To the south of the connecting ridge, an unexpected tarn provided a scenic surprise.

Beautiful colors swirl in Purple Mound’s summit shale. The origins of this peak’s name are certainly not mysterious!

Brianne stops to take in the impressive views with Purple Mound’s summit just ahead.

Summit #250!!!

In addition to providing me with a milestone, Purple Mound also provided us with a lovely summit panorama. To the north, the views stretched from Redoubt Mountain (left) all the way to Armor Peak (right) with brightly colored rock and golden larch forests scattered in between. Click to see larger.

Looking north into the heart of Skoki.

Redoubt Mountain’s impressive ramparts tower over much-smaller Packer’s Pass Peak (right).

Fossil Mountain flirts with the clouds (left) while Brachiopod Mountain’s slabby summit sits in the shade (right) beyond nearby Unity Peak (center).

The peaks of the Protection Mountain Massif highlight the panorama to the southeast while dramatically lit clouds continue to cloak the nearby continental divide. Click to see larger.

Mount Avens (left) and glacier-capped Pulsatilla Mountain (center) rise up beyond the Protection Massif’s impressive walls.

Bullwark Peak: the northernmost high point on the Protection Massif.

The midpoint of the Protection Massif: Armor Peak.

Moraine Lake appears to the south while the Valley of the Ten Peaks remains ensconced in heavy cloud.

Looking back towards a now-sunny Lipalian Mountain.

A colorful but cloudy panorama to the northwest. Click to see larger.

Whitehorn (home to the Lake Louise Ski Resort and a great place to get married) rises up beyond larch-speckled Wolverine Ridge.

Enjoying another anniversary summit with the Love of my Life! Mouse over to see how we stayed warm… 😘

After celebratory summit smooches, we decided that it was time to get down so that we could move onto the next part of our annual anniversary celebration: dinner and a spectacular rooftop hot tub in nearby Lake Louise! Rather than slogging back up and over Lipalian Mountain, we decided to descend via the valley immediately to the south of Wolverine Ridge (directly over Brianne’s head). From above, this larch-filled valley looked pretty mellow and the scree which we danced down to reach it made for one of my fastest descents yet!

A very chilled bumblebee clings to some silky scorpionweed high above tree line. Looks like this poor little fellow needed a hot tub even more dearly than we did!

After finishing our spectacular scree descent, we enjoyed ambling downwards through lovely larch-filled meadows.

Following an enchanting little creek down the path of least-resistance.

Looking back up the valley’s babbling brook towards Purple Mound.

This is what I love most about hiking in the Rockies! Off-trail exploration in spectacular alpine surroundings! Even though there’s a ski hill directly ahead, it may have been days or weeks or even months since a human being last set-foot in this little corner of heaven.

As we continued to follow the valley’s enchanting little creek, we couldn’t help but notice that it was quickly becoming an enchanting waterfall (and not a little one)! As the water tumbled down over a steep headwall that had been invisible from above, we found ourselves, briefly, cliffed out and less enchanted than we had been moments earlier!

Mercifully, we did not have to hike back up Purple Mound or Wolverine Ridge to escape our impromptu descent valley. After exploring some ledges to the south of the waterfall, we found this steep break in the cliffs and carefully scrambled down it. From above, the terrain looked difficult but as we descended it felt more moderate. Still, a slip at any point would have made for a very unhappy anniversary! I guess that’s why you should avoid the urge to descend unknown routes (even if they are enchanting) …

Safely down and looking back up towards the surprisingly steep headwall which tried its best to thwart our descent. Mouse over to see the steep gully which allowed for our escape.

A closer look at our afternoon’s excitement. Mouse over to see our exact line down the headwall.

Plunging back into the “enchanted forest” below the headwall.

Running into the first signs of civilization (apparently Kokanee is the “beer out here”). As we began to discover detritus, we knew that we must have crossed back into the ski area's boundaries.

After following a ski run over mossy terrain, we soon intersected one of the ski hill’s access roads and elected to follow it back down towards the main Temple road.

A brief visit with the local outfitter’s horses broke up the tedium of our remaining hike down the Temple Fire Road. While the rock-hard road was dull, it was, at least, efficient and after 4 km of quick travel, we reached the trailhead and removed our boots in delight.

A day in the mountains with my beautiful wife. A successful ascent of my 250th different peak. Enchanting valleys aglow with amber larch trees. An anniversary ale in alpine surroundings! All things that made for another amazing anniversary.

Happy 6th anniversary Brianne! Here’s to many more!