Mount Elbert

Elevation: 4401 m (14440 feet)
Elevation Gain: 1360 m (4462 feet)
Located in Colorado's Sawatch Range, Mount Elbert is the highest peak in the Rocky Mountains and was named for Samuel Hitt Elbert. Elbert served as the Governor of Colorado from 1873 – 1874 before becoming Chief Justice of the State’s Supreme Court in 1879. The peak was named by local miners when the then-Governor brokered a treaty with the Ute tribe that opened up more than 3 million acres of reservation land for mining and railroad activity. Despite its great height, Mount Elbert has no glaciers or permanent snowfields. Glaciers have, however, been responsible for shaping the peak (most notably, the glacier-carved cirque on its northeast face and a series of moraine-dammed lakes at its foot). Originally, Mount Elbert was measured to be 4399 m high, however, its elevation was determined to be 4,401 m during a 1988 re-measurement. Mount Elbert’s status as the highest point in the Rockies was, briefly, threatened in the 1970s when a campaign was launched to increase the height of its 12-foot-lower neighbor Mount Massive. The organizers of this campaign would build rock cairns atop Mount Massive in an attempt to increase its height. Not everyone felt that Elbert should be robbed of its title, however, and these rock piles were frequently dismantled.
My Ascents:
June 27 2019
Trailhead: Mount Elbert Trailhead
GPS Track: Mount Elbert (North East Ridge)

Let’s face it. Size matters. While all peaks are beautiful, not all peaks are equally endowed and when it comes to height, no peak in the Rockies (Canadian or American) can match Mount Elbert (4401 m).

When I discovered that work would be taking me to Colorado during hiking season, I immediately knew that I’d be attempting Mount Elbert. There was simply no question. As an obsessive peak-bagger, I was extremely grateful for the opportunity to attempt the highest peak in my beloved Rockies and I wasn't going to let that chance pass me by!

After leaving Denver under dark skies at 4am, I reached Elbert’s base at 6:30 and started my journey up towards the roof of the Rockies.

Sawatch giants Mounts Elbert (left) and Massive (right) aglow in the early morning light near Leadville, CO (click to see larger).

A closer look at the highest peak in the Rocky Mountains. The standard northeast ridge route ascends the obvious rib in the center of this photo. While the required elevation gain and thin air can present a challenge, the route itself is a non-technical class 1 or 2 hike. Mouse over for approximate route.

GO TIME!!!

From the busy trailhead, a well-travelled path leads gently up into the forest. As I hiked through the still-cold morning air, summer songbirds serenaded me. From the start, this had all the makings of a beauty day!

Within minutes, the trail crosses this charming creek. On ascent, its peaceful babbling soothed me and, on descent, its ice-cold waters provided some welcome invigoration after a day in the hot summer sun.

Beyond the bridged brook, the trail steepens somewhat. A huff and puff in the thin air ensued.

A brief break in the forest granted views back down towards Emerald Lake. Much of the trail below tree line was viewless but, on a morning as beautiful as this, the forest had its own charm and I happily hiked ever upwards.

It’s pretty tough to get lost on Elbert (though I’m certain many have managed to do-so somehow…).

Someone, apparently, threw in the towel about one tenth of the way up! I have to admit that there were moments when I wondered if I’d be doing the same. Despite acclimatizing atop three 13,000-foot-tall peaks and three 14,000-foot-tall peaks earlier in my trip, I was dying on Elbert! As sweat poured from my brow, I noticed that my hands were shaking. I was thrilled to be out but growing deeply concerned at my lack of energy this early in the day. Hoping that some calories would help, I found a nice rock to sit on and proceeded to eat half my lunch as other hikers effortlessly passed me by. This is not something that I’m accustomed to in the mountains! Despite this minor blow to my ego, I’d soon finished my first sandwich and Clif Bar® and decided that, slowly or otherwise, I was climbing this mountain.

Approaching tree line, the trail was occasionally lost in remnant summer snow. Nevertheless, route finding was trivial thanks to the myriad of other hikers who’d left their muddy footprints for me to follow and soon I was above tree line surrounded by grand alpine views!

A remarkably speedy pair of hikers whiz effortlessly by (must be the compression socks!) as the trail switchbacks up open alpine slopes and tundra-scape.

Around 3900 m elevation (850 m above the trailhead), the switchbacks abated atop a high plateau. The steep glacier-carved cirque ahead, however, suggested that this reprieve would only be temporary!

Mount Massive makes for a scenic backdrop to a high-altitude rock garden on Elbert’s sub-cirque plateau.

Nepali prayer flags flutter in the wind high above Twin Lakes below. These flags filled me with nostalgia as I enjoyed the warmth of the sun in the thin air and recalled similar sights from my prayer flag-filled Himalayan honeymoon years prior.

My pleasant walk along Elbert’s 3900-m-tall bench ended as this steep slope (generally considered the route's crux) reared skywards on the northern edge of a prominent cirque. While there was more snow than is usual for this time of year, the trail up this slope was, surprisingly dry.

As I worked my way up the steep scree slope, a tarn at the base of the cirque came into view along with Twin Lakes much farther below. Tarns are classic post-glacial landforms and the lakes below were also formed by moraines which dammed them. Although Elbert no longer features a glacier of any kind, these geological features all provide clues to its much icier past.

A common sight above 4000 m elevation: hikers keeled over and sucking wind! Fortunately, I didn’t share in their plight. While I’d, for some reason, struggled mightily in the forest 1000 m below, I felt stronger and stronger the higher that I hiked on Elbert! Perhaps my lungs just aren’t accustomed to the thick air at the trailhead below?

Atop the steep cirque, the final 200 vertical meters of the route finally come into view.

Sensing the impending summit, my afterburners kicked in and I passed at least a dozen other hikers as I kicked steps up the delightfully firm sub-summit snow slopes.

The roof of the Rockies comes into view, surrounded by a spectacularly snowy sea of peaks.

Views for days!

Rocky Mountain High! Looking down on the Rockies’ second-highest peak (Mount Massive) from Elbert’s summit cairn.

As you might expect, the summit of the Rockies is a popular place and I shared it with a dozen or so other hikers in addition to at least one local resident who camouflaged well with the surrounding talus!

The highest marmot in the Rocky Mountains!

To the north, the green valley between Mount Oklahoma (center left) and Mount Massive (center right) looks like an inviting place to explore.

Beyond Massive, Mount Jackson (center left) and Mount of the Holy Cross (center) pierce the horizon. Appropriately, Middle Mountain can be seen in the mid-ground on the left while Whitney Peak and Galena Mountain occupy the middle ground in the center and right of this photo, respectively.

A spectacular summit panorama stretches from French Mountain (left) to Twin Lakes (right). There are, literally, hundreds of named peaks in between! Click to see larger.

Looking northeast beyond Elbert’s snowy summit towards Turquoise Lake.

To the east, Leadville (the highest incorporated city in America) sits atop a high plain which separates Mount Elbert from the peaks of the Mosquito Range to the east. Among the many peaks visible east of Leadville, snowy 14ers Lincoln, Cameron and Bross are visible right of the town about one third of the way along the horizon from the left. Click to see larger.

Looking east beyond remnant snow towards the south end of the Mosquito Range.

Knowing that “Twin Lakes” were nearby, I was somewhat surprised to spot a trio of lakes to the east. The left-most lake, however, appears to be a stocked reservoir (Mount Elbert Forebay).

The panorama to the southwest is filled with countless snowy peaks and stretches from the Collegiate Peaks (left) to La Plata Peak (center) and north towards the Elk Mountains (right). Click to see larger.

Yours truly posing with lovely La Plata Peak (center).

The incredible panorama to the northwest beyond Casco Peak (left), French Mountain (center left), Oklahoma Mountain (center right) and Mount Massive (right). Click to see larger.

Trying not to blow away atop the highest point in the Rockies. Indeed, I’d encountered strong winds above 13,000 feet on each of my previous 5 acclimatization peaks and Elbert proved no different. Despite the gale-force wind, however, the summer sun felt strong at 4,401 m elevation and I enjoyed a lengthy summit stay.

MOUNTAINS. I believe that the prominent peak at center left is Grizzly Peak (A!) while 14er Castle Peak is the highest peak visible on the right-hand horizon. Normally, Peakfinder.org is a great resource to identify mountains by name but their Mount Elbert page identifies, literally, thousands of named peaks visible from Elbert’s summit and makes my head want to explode! The problem with being so high is that countless peaks are visible on the horizon since there’s nothing higher to obstruct them for, say, 1078 km in any direction!

The Elk Mountains (including 14ers Snowmass Mountain and Capital Peak – left) stretch out to the northwest beyond French Mountain.

Deer Mountain (center left) and Oklahoma Mountain (center right) were rare, identifiable peaks on Peakfinder since there’s not a host of peaks beyond them on the horizon.

Taking in the sweeping views. Despite my usual myriad of summit photos, I also spent a fair bit of time comfortably seated on my pack and just enjoying the moment (in a lee of course). Mount Elbert may not be a technical ascent or a remote peak but the chance to see the Rockies from their top doesn’t come everyday and I truly savored it.

Another hiker begins her descent from the roof of the Rockies. After nearly an hour atop Elbert’s sunny summit, I decided to do likewise taking advantage of the ample late-season snow to enjoy a great glissade. I love climbing mountains but there’s really nothing better than sliding down one on you’re a$$!

About 500 vertical meters below the summit, I bore witness to the most stupid thing that I’ve ever seen in the mountains (and with over 240 distinct summits to my name, I’ve seen a lot!). As I glissaded down relatively gentle slopes with an axe, I saw a hiker in running shoes venture out onto a steep snow slope that was obviously not part of the route. When I asked him what he was doing, he told me that he was looking for his friend who had decided that it would be fun to ride a sled down the steep, dangerous snow slopes in the center of Elbert’s prominent cirque. As he proceeded (without an axe or even poles), he slipped and began to slide out of control. Fortunately, he managed to arrest his slide after a very quick, very tense 30 m. His slide made him suddenly aware of the stupidity of his actions and he agreed to come back towards me. Since I was the only person on the mountain with an axe, I took it out and met him halfway guiding him back to safe ground.

Once we were back on safe ground, we managed to spot his missing friend (pictured above) in terrain that was 10 times worse than where we’d just been. Obviously, his friend’s sled was LONG gone and the fellow was now delicately kicking steps down a steep 55-degree snow slope that ran out over cliffs (out of sight below in the photo). Adding to severity of his predicament, these slopes were BAKING in the hot afternoon sun and the snow’s surface was a mess of slush. While the hiker in the photo had the brains to face inwards, he did not have an axe, crampons or (in all likelihood) gloves. I can’t even imagine how terrified this guy was (though he likely wasn’t as scared as he ought to have been). I watched on in horror with each successive kick-step, not wanting to be witness to a fatality on a day this beautiful (or any other for that matter). After a tense 10 – 15 minutes, the fool reached a solid rock outcrop and appeared to hunker down, remaining idle for 5 minutes. By now, it was apparent that I could do little to help (even with my axe, I would not be caught dead on that slope). If he had fallen, I would perhaps have been able to glissade down to provide first aid but, since the now-rockbound fellow was no longer moving, I ensured that his friend had cell phone reception to call for help if necessary and continued on my way.

There are certainly lessons to be taken from this event, not the least of which is (and I can’t believe that this needs to be expressly stated): don’t try to sled down the highest peak in the Rockies.

As I continued down, I peered over my shoulder from time-to-time to see if the foolhardy sled-enthusiast had made any progress but, soon, he and the steep cirque he occupied faded from view. As the saying goes, out of sight, out of mind and, without intending to sound callous, his predicament soon faded from my mind’s forefront, replaced by fresh mountain air and sweeping views towards the snowy Mosquito Range above Leadville.

After making a speedy descent, I neared tree line and began to mentally prepare for the viewless final 570 vertical meters down through the forest. No matter how charming a forest seems on approach, history has taught me that it will feel like an endless hell on descent and Elbert proved no different.

After a soul-sapping hike down through the woods in the hot afternoon sun, I was thrilled to dip my head under the cool, noisy creek near Elbert’s trailhead and, happier still, to reach the salvation of sandals and air-conditioning in the parking lot nearby!

Despite the tedious finish, I really couldn't have asked for a better day! As I reflect back on my trip now, I can barely remember the blisters, the sweat or even the fool and his ill-fated sled. Instead, I feel a profound sense of calm and gratefulness. For me, the mention of Elbert will now, and forever, conjure up the image of a sea of snowy summits stretching out at my feet; for I was fortunate enough to feel the warmth of the sun and the bite of the wind from the roof of the Rocky Mountains.

🙏