Nub Ridge

Elevation: 2520 m
Elevation Gain: 325 m
Nub Ridge stretches northward from Sunburst Lake in Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park, culminating in Nub Peak. The peak, ridge and southern outlier (Nublet) were named in 1924 for the mountain’s nub-like appearance. Although Nub Peak is the highest point along the ridge, many of the ridge’s subsidiary summits (including Nub Ridge and Nublet) feature better views owing to their proximity to Mount Assiniboine. Uninspiring name aside, Nublet, Nub Ridge and Nub Peak all offer some of the Canadian Rockies’ finest vistas making them popular non-technical ascents for hikers in Assiniboine Provincial Park.
My Ascents:
September 17 2018
Trailhead: Magog Lake

I owe my love of the mountains, in large part, to my Dad: Gord Hobbs. From the time that I was a toddler, our weekends were spent hiking or cross-country skiing in the Canadian Rockies. As a boy, I listened intently while he recalled “epics” on Mount Temple or the Big Sister (anyone who knows Gord has probably heard these stories – more than once!). I looked up to him and wondered if I could climb mountains like those one day. As I grew older, I discovered that I could and my passion for hiking turned into a passion for scrambling. Intent to explore the Rockies with his son, Gord became my most reliable scrambling partner. Despite the fact that he was in his 60s, he never had any problem keeping up with me and my 20-something friends. In fact, he was often the one leading the charge when the terrain became more difficult! By my tally, we climbed over 50 different peaks together in the period of a few short summers.

Shortly after Gord retired, however, his once indomitable body gave out on him. In the span of a year, he went from bagging peaks to struggling to walk. Cruelly, he was no longer able to do the things that he loved most now that he finally had the time to do them. He needed a hip replacement.

Thanks to some incredible good fortune, however, he spent less than a year waiting for his actual surgery. In June 2017, he went under the knife. His recovery took more time than he hoped but as the 2018 hiking season approached, he was able to hike with me (and my growing family) for the first time. He might not ever climb Temple again but he revelled at the chance to summit beautiful peaks like Mount St. Piran once more.

Gord turned 70 this summer and, to mark the occasion, I decided to surprise him with a multiday father-son mountain trip. A trip where we were free of wives and kids; a throwback to our many previous carefree adventures. Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park is among the prettiest places in the Rockies and features many hikes and peaks that I knew Gord would love. Unfortunately, its remote nature means that a 25 – 30 km hike is required just to reach its core. With heavy overnight packs, I knew this would take a terrible toll on Gord’s new hip so, instead of hiking to and from Assiniboine, I arranged for us (and our gear) to be helicoptered! I also had the good fortune to secure spots for us in one of the Naiset Huts (after hitting redial over 500 times the morning that bookings opened). With a spot in a hut, we were assured of a proper bed which would surely be easier on Gord’s new hip than crawling into and out of a tent.

After waiting for months to surprise him, I gave him his gift on his 70th birthday. I think it was a good gift because he cried. Which made me cry too. Happy birthday Old Man!

The Shortcut into Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park:

On September 16, Gord and I set out from Calgary to catch our helicopter at the Mount Shark helipad and embark on our latest mountain adventure together.

Work smarter not harder! Why spend our entire trip hiking to and from Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park’s core area when Alpine Helicopters will whisk you there in only 8 minutes?

Our pilot skillfully navigates up the Bryant Creek Valley despite thick cloud and poor visibility (photo courtesy Gord Hobbs).

The red roof-dotted shores of Magog Lake come into view while flying over Assiniboine Pass. The ranger cabin and Naiset Huts can be seen just left of center while the Assiniboine Lodge can be seen right of center. Photo courtesy Gord Hobbs.

Our home away from home for 3 nights: the Forget-Me-Not cabin (one of the Naiset Huts). This accommodation was far from posh but, with a wood stove inside and snow on the ground outside, it sure beat tenting it at the Magog Lake Campground (and at $25 per person per night, the price was right)!

Western Pasqueflowers attest to the fact that it was still (technically) summer despite the freezing cold and snow! When I’d booked our trip months earlier, I’d of course hoped for warm weather and clear skies. Sadly, we found the exact opposite when we finally arrived. As we explored Magog’s shoreline on our first day, the views were quite limited. After warming up at the Assiniboine Lodge’s “Happy Hour” (aka: public tea), we retired to the warmth of the Naiset Huts and hoped/prayed for better weather tomorrow!

Nub Ridge:

After waking before first light on September 17, Gord and I both excitedly got dressed and left the hut for some early morning photography. We were dismayed to see a mostly overcast sky but found a nice bench near the Assiniboine Lodge and hoped that the cloud might make for a dramatic sunrise. Sadly, the sun never pierced the thick cloud and the photos we coveted never materialized. With frozen fingers and toes, we retreated to the Hut’s cook shelter to at least enjoy a hot breakfast.

After reinvigorating ourselves with instant oatmeal, we discussed potential hikes (mostly as a means of stalling and hoping that the weather would clear). Eventually, we grew tired of waiting for the weather to cooperate and set out for Nub Ridge. The ridge can be reached by a couple of paths from the Naiset Huts/Assiniboine Lodge and we opted to follow the shorter/higher meadow path. Given the morning’s moody weather, it didn’t seem like the longer lakeshore path would offer much in the way of improved views anyways!

Aha oho, (wolf) tracks in the snow. Whose are these paw prints and where do they go?

Gord meanders through meadows. Despite the poor conditions, he was surprisingly content. I, on the other hand, was moodier than the weather! After putting so much effort into planning the perfect trip for him, I was growing more and more frustrated with the hand that we’d been dealt. As I vented, Gord (a deeply religious fellow) shared that he’d been praying for a miraculous clearing. As a scientist, I told him that I preferred proof to faith and I bitterly noted that there was little evidence of God listening to his prayers…

And so, we soldiered on, making elevation gains as we hiked up the Nublet.

Arriving at the Nublet, the low cloud that surrounded us for hours very suddenly dispersed and views of nearby peaks and lakes manifested from a void. It was hardly a blue bird view but it was enough to lift even my spirits. Gord, of course, saw the Lord’s hand at work and I saw unpredictable mountain meteorology. Importantly though, we both saw a bit of a view (and a nice one at that)! Click to see larger.

With “improving” weather, we decided to continue up beyond the Nublet towards Nub Ridge, following another group of hikers (whose numbers dwindled rapidly as the terrain steepened). Photo courtesy Gord Hobbs.

So much for that “miraculous” clearing … Searching for a view (without success) atop Nub Ridge. Photo courtesy Gord Hobbs.

Gord stands on the edge of a precipice on Nub Ridge’s, otherwise, rounded summit. To the left, the ridge continues up towards Nub Peak in the clouds. Having previously scrambled Nub Peak in 2011, we debated continuing but decided that there really wasn’t much point. Best case scenario: we’d see even less than we currently could and be colder. Worst case scenario: Gord might slip on the more scrambly, snow-covered terrain and undo a year’s worth of recovery from hip surgery. And so, we plunked down for some hot tea and enjoyed this limited but dramatic view (click to see larger).

The nearby Valley of the Rocks appears beyond the col which separates Nub Peak (left) from an unnamed outlier (right). Photo courtesy Gord Hobbs.

Cascade Rock and Mount Cautley (right) rise gently above Assiniboine Pass to the east. Photo courtesy Gord Hobbs.

Directly below, Elizabeth Lake adds a splash of color to the otherwise black-and-white landscape.

Not quite the summit panorama we’d hoped for but it was great to be back on a peak with the Old Man!

After hoping that the sky would clear for about an hour, we resigned ourselves to another whiteout summit view and started our descent.

OF COURSE as we descended, the sky DID begin to clear! Photo courtesy Gord Hobbs.

As the low cloud lifted, a stunning lake-filled panorama was revealed from about halfway between Nub Ridge and the Nublet (from left to right: Magog Lake, Sunburst Lake and Cerulean Lake). Click to see larger.

Is that sunlight?! Wonder Pass (left) the Towers (center left), Naiset Point (center) and Terrapin Mountain (right) catch the day’s first rays (in the mid-afternoon) above Magog Lake.

Dramatic lighting on Terrapin Mountain (left) and Mount Magog (right).

Sun-sparkled Cerulean Lake glistens at the foot of Sunburst Peak. Photo courtesy Gord Hobbs.

Finding a “comfy” perch from which to enjoy the improving views! Curious to see how good the views might get, we ultimately hunkered down in a lee area and watched, cameras-in-hand, as the clouds continued to lift. Photo courtesy Gord Hobbs.

Not “On Top” of anything anymore but still pretty damned happy to be back out in the mountains together!

Bride-like, Mount Assiniboine makes a dramatic first appearance dressed in white and sporting a mist veil.

Continuing down, this panorama from the Nublet might be my favorite of the day and resulted in another photography break. Click to see larger.

The highest peak in the southern Canadian Rockies, Mount Assiniboine towers over its neighbors (from left to right: Naiset Point, Terrapin Mountain and Mount Magog).

With the weather finally improving, we opted to take the more circuitous route back and were rewarded with this view of Sunburst Peak towering impressively above scenic Cerulean Lake.

As the sun warmed the ground, the snow began to melt revealing previously hidden autumn colors. Photo courtesy Gord Hobbs.

Continuing past Cerulean Lake, we soon arrived at spectacular Sunburst Lake.

Naiset Point, Terrapin Mountain and Mount Magog beautifully reflected in Sunburst Lake.

While the clearing skies were most welcome, they had the unfortunate effect of slowing our progress to a crawl while our cameras rapidly consumed digital memory. By the time that we’d reached Sunburst Lake, these continued photography breaks had put our chances of reaching the Assiniboine Lodge in time for “Happy Hour” (aka: public tea) in serious jeopardy.

Amber foliage and aurulent larches make for stunning views towards Mount Assiniboine, slowing us significantly!

As a hiker, Gord is not renowned for his speed (rather the opposite). Once he realized that he might miss out on a glass of red wine at the Lodge, however, he put it into high gear – scenery be damned!

Windy Point Ridge, Og Mountain and Cave Mountain highlight the view beyond meadowy marshes as we blaze back towards the Lodge.

This reflection of Mount Assiniboine in a seasonal tarn proved too pretty to pass up. Another photo stop ensued as the odds of making "Happy Hour" (aka: public tea) further diminished... (Photo courtesy Gord Hobbs)

Hallelujah! Gord and I may disagree as to whether or not clearing skies constituted an act of God but even I had to agree that making it back to the Lodge in time to enjoy a beer (or two…) was nothing short of miraculous. Better still, after hiking all day, this cold one was heavenly!

Not too many “Happy Hours” in town feature a view like this (public teas either for that matter)! An awesome end to a day that miraculously kept getting better. And the best part: the next day's forecast looked nicer still... (Photo courtesy Gord Hobbs)